Is Phong Nha worth visiting
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Beautiful Vietnam: Is Phong Nha Worth Visiting?

Are you planning a trip to Vietnam and wondering “Is Phong Nha worth visiting?”

Phong Nha is an extraordinary destination in Central Vietnam and worth visiting for the remarkable scenery and the stunning caves. Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park is a best known as a caving destination and expeditions into the caves are popular but there’s plenty to see and do for ordinary travellers.

The boat trip along the Son River to the beautiful Phong Nha Cave is a highlight of visiting Phong Nha and the incredible Paradise Cave is also easily accessible. Other Phong Nha activities include hiking, swimming, cycling and kayaking in a stunning rural landscape.

While Phong Nha is increasing in popularity, it’s not yet on the main tourist trail and this makes it ideal to visit while it’s still relatively quiet and sparkling clean.

I’ve enjoyed two solo trips to Vietnam and spent several days independently exploring this astonishing corner of the country. I loved visiting so I’m sharing the best things to do in Phong Nha, how to get around, where to stay and much more.

boat on a river with green grassy banks and tall mountains behind
Son River Phong Nha Vietnam

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Why You’ll Love visiting Phong Nha

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park has spectacular scenery, amazing underground rivers and a vast network of caves. Like Halong Bay, the ancient Karst mountains of Phong Nha were formed 400 million years ago and the extraordinary National Park is UNESCO World Heritage-listed.

Known as one of the world’s best caving destinations, Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park is a favourite with adventure travellers as it contains the largest limestone caves in the world. 

But there are also hiking trails, tropical forests, beautiful mountains, rivers and lakes ideal for kayaking. You don’t have to be especially adventurous to enjoy this stunning National Park.

Best things to do in Phong Nha

The best things to do in Phong Nha include visiting the caves. Both Phong Nha Cave and Paradise Cave are easy to get to and quite spectacular.  

Phong Nha Cave

Visiting stunning Phong Nha Cave is one of the best Phong Nha activities to do inependently. Phong Nha Cave is easily accessible by boat from the dock in Son Trach Village and you can see the cave in a few hours.

I went to the ticket office and waited for enough people to come along to fill a boat. When we had around 10 people, our boat took us up the Son River to Phong Nha Cave. It was a relaxing trip and the scenery was lovely. The river took us past houses and villages nestled below the jungle-covered mountains.

The boat trip took about half an hour and when we reached the Phong Nha Cave our boatwoman turned off the motor and rowed the boat into the mouth of the cave.

boat onthe Son River running through Phong Nha Cave
Visiting Phong Nha Cave by boat is one of the best things to do in Phong Nha.

The silence inside Phong Nha Cave was quite magical!

We pulled up at a beach inside the cave and explored on foot enjoying a closer look at the impressive formations. The dramatic stalactites and stalagmites are well-lit and easy to see.

Outside the cave, stairs lead up the mountain to the Tien Son Cave where there’s a 9th-century shrine.

We rejoined the boat outside the cave for the return trip to Son Trach village.

Entry: VND 150,000 (US$6) + boat VND 550,000 per boat (approx. VND 55,000 (US$2) per person)

TIP: Join a Kayak tour into Phong Nha Cave and see much more of the cave than you will in a large boat. Kayak tours leave from Hang Toi a few kilometres away. This looks amazing!

Paradise Cave

The phenomenal Paradise Cave extends for around 31 kilometres beneath the jungle-covered mountains. It’s about 14 kilometres away from Son Trach Village and as I was travelling alone, I hired a motorbike taxi to take me there.

The entrance to Paradise Cave is halfway up the mountain and the pathway through the dense jungle is quite steep. Inside the cave, a wooden staircase descends sharply into a massive cavern. The size of the cave is truly breathtaking!

 A wooden walkway stretches for about a kilometre into the cave and you can admire the amazing formations from the walkway. A visit to Paradise cave takes a few hours but if you want to go deeper into the cave you can book a tour.

Entry: VND 250,000 (US$11)

TIP: See Phong Nha Cave and Paradise Cave on the same day. Trek through the forest to the majestic stalactites of Paradise Cave. Cruise the poetic Son River to Phong Nha Cave, Asia’s longest underground river.

Hang Toi or Dark Cave

Hang Toi or Dark Cave, is another cave you can see independently in Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park. But visiting Hang Toi involves more adventurous activities like a zipline flight over the water to the cave entrance before swimming into the mouth of the cave.

Inside Dark Cave, it’s pitch black, and you can expect to slip and slide through muddy passageways. Leaving Hang Toi, a short, boat ride takes you back to the Dark Cave jetty.

Entry: VND450,000 (US$20)

TIP: Explore Dark Cave and Paradise Cave and visit the Phong Nha Botanic Garden. Zipline, kayak, swim and take a mud bath on this tour by boat.

Hang Son Doong

Hang Son Doong was discovered in the 1990s and became officially the world’s largest cave in 2009. An expedition to Son Doong takes four days and is challenging and costly. It includes camping at scenic locations along the way. It’s also very popular so you need to book well in advance. 

TIP:  Access to some of the larger caves in the National Park is restricted for conservation reasons but Oxalis runs guided expeditions to Son Doong, Tu Lan, Hang Va, Nuoc Nut and Pygmy Cave.

stalactites and stalacmites inside Phong Nha cave
Inside Phong Nha Cave Vietnam

Phong Nha Botanical Gardens 

 ** Are NOT an easy stroll through the park.

If you’re looking for things to do in Phong Nha that are not about visiting the caves, why not go for a walk in the Phong Nha Botanical Gardens?

I enjoyed visiting but was expecting a pretty garden with paved pathways. The reality was quite different. The Phong Nha Botanical Gardens consist of several hiking trails through the tropical forest. Signposts highlight the vegetation, wildlife and the different landscapes within the garden.

The trails are steep, muddy and quite rough, especially when it’s raining. It was so muddy I had to haul myself up and down the slippery inclines using ropes.

The trail I chose took me around the gardens and down a steep, slippery path to a pretty waterfall. At the foot of the waterfall was a water hole where people were swimming.

Continuing along the trail involved climbing 100 metres up the cliff beside the waterfall using ropes. It seemed easier than going back up the muddy path the way I had come.

This Botanical Garden is beautiful but not for the unfit or faint-hearted. Wear hiking boots and take some water.

Entry: VND 40,000 (US$1.50)

Kayaking

One of the best things to do in Phong Nha is to take a kayak out on the water. I enjoyed a peaceful morning kayaking on Dong Suon Lake near the Lake House where I was staying. I borrowed a kayak and life jacket from the guesthouse. The lake is a few kilometres away from Son Trach Village.

TIP: You can also join a Kayak Tour to Phong Nha Cave and go further into the cave than the large boats can. This is an unforgettable experience in Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park on the longest underground river in the world.

Trekking

Join a trekking tour and spend a day exploring the National Park in Phong Nha.

Trek the Ho Chi Minh trail, visit the remote abandoned valley or the Phong Nha Wildlife Rescue and Rehabilitation Centre.

You can also trek through the jungle to the spectacular Hung Thoong Cave system.

Cycling through the countryside

If you’re still looking for fun things to do in Phong Nha, why not explore the countryside on a bicycle? Many guest houses provide bicycles for their guests.

You can explore the Long Bai Valley, pedal along back roads and meandering bike trails, discover laidback local villages and relax amidst gorgeous riverside scenery.

a blue boat on the Son River in Phong Nha Vietnam
The Son River in Phong Nha Vietnam

Duck Stop

If you’re still wondering what to do in Phong Nha, why not call in at “Duck Stop” and experience a duck massage and other fun duck-related activities? Duck Stop is a local farm where visitors can experience rural life in Vietnam, feed the ducks, become the duck leader or ride a buffalo.

Duck Stop is located 5 kilometres outside Son Trach Village and is open daily from 8:30 am to 6 pm.

Entry: VND150,000 (US$6.50)

Discover Phong Nha’s War History 

Phong Nha played a major role in the American War in the 1960s & 70s and was a training ground for the North Vietnamese Army. The area was extensively bombed and unexploded ordnance is still a problem for the local people.

History buffs will enjoy learning about the area but stay safe and stick to the marked pathways. If you want to explore the Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park, take a licensed guide with you.

The Ho Chi Minh Trail

The Ho Chi Minh Trail is a dirt track through the jungle, in the Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park. The trail was used during the American War as a supply route and can be explored on foot or by bicycle.

boat on the River in Phong Nha Vietnam
The Son River in Phong Nha Vietnam

How to get to Phong Nha

Bus: Phong Nha Ke Bang is around 4 – 5 hours by bus from Hue and 7 hours from Danang or Hoi An. The bus I took from Hue was built for small Vietnamese people. It was very cramped and uncomfortable but it stopped directly outside The Lake House where I was staying.

Train: The Reunification Express train travels from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City and stops at Dong Hoi. From there, catch a bus (or taxi) to Son Trach village in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. The train is a more comfortable choice than local bus.

Phong Nha is approximately 50 kilometres or 1 hour from the train station at Dong Hoi. Buses to Phong Nha leave every hour from outside the Dong Hoi Post Office or from the bus station.

Hanoi to Dong Hoi takes 9 – 11 hours by train. I booked a 1st class sleeper on the night train and had a comfortable trip. The Reunification Express train also stops at Danang, Hue, and Ninh Binh.

TIP: I booked my travel E-tickets online with 12Go Asia.  It’s convenient and reliable for purchasing bus and train tickets throughout Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

It’s also possible to travel independently to Phong Nha by motorbike or car.

How to Get Around Phong Nha

Grab doesn’t operate in Phong Nha but there are taxis. I was travelling alone so I hired a Xe Om motorbike taxi for the day to visit the Botanical Gardens and Paradise Cave.

I also caught the local bus into town to visit the Phong Nha Cave. The bus stop is right outside the Lake House where I was staying.

If you’re travelling alone in Vietnam, joining a group tour is a great way to visit the caves and you can rent a motorbike if you prefer to do your own thing. The roads are quiet but not in great condition so I recommend caution, especially if you’re unlicenced or inexperienced riding a motorbike.

TIP: Hire a Xe Om or an easy rider motorbike with a local driver and stay safe. Contact Thang’s Phong Nha Riders.

Where to Eat

Son Trach Village is quite small but has a selection of places to eat. I stayed out of town and ate evening meals at the Lake House Restaurant but there are some restaurants and street food stalls in the village.

Stop for a coffee at Phong Nha Coffee Station,  Bamboo Café has tasty vegetarian meals and you can relax in the evening at Momma D’s rooftop lounge.

Where to Stay in Phong Nha

Although Phong Nha is relatively quiet in terms of the number of tourists visiting, there are plenty of options for affordable, well-located accommodations.

Budget: Central Backpacker Hostel has clean rooms, comfortable beds and a good location with a bus stop at the front door of the Hostel.

Mid-Range: I stayed at The Lakehouse in a spacious bungalow on the lake with a private balcony right over the water. The Lake House is a few kilometres out of town but the bus stops at the door and there’s a convenient on-site restaurant, a swimming pool plus free kayaks and bicycles.

The owners are very friendly and helped me with transport into town when I missed the bus. And the owner even drove me to Dong Hoi and dropped me at the train station as she was going that way anyway. I can highly recommend the Lakehouse and would love to stay there again.

Upper Mid-Range: Victory Road Villas also gets exceptional reviews for its beautiful surroundings. It’s a gorgeous villa with a pool and fabulous views.

TIP: It’s also possible to stay on the coast at Dong Hoi and take a day trip to the Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park to visit Phong Nha and Paradise Caves.

fishing nets on the coast with colourful houses in the distance
Fishing nets in Dong Hoi Vietnam

When to go

The best time to visit Phong Nha is from June to August when the weather is hot.

I was there in January at the end of the wet season and it rained for several days. The weather was ok for visiting the caves and kayaking but it was a bit cool for swimming and a bit muddy for hiking.

I chose January for my Vietnam trip because it was my summer holiday. It’s not an ideal time to visit Phong Nha or Central Vietnam but there are fewer visitors in January than at other times of the year.

September to December are the worst months to visit Phong Nha for a caving expedition as the area experiences seasonal flooding and the caves are closed for safety reasons.  

TIP: North and South Vietnam experience very different weather patterns. Learn more about what it’s like to visit Vietnam in January, the best and the worst times to visit Vietnam and the best time to travel to Cambodia and Vietnam.

More Tips for Phong Nha Travel

  • Access to Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park is tightly controlled due to the unexploded ordnance in the area so stay on the marked pathways and take a licensed guide if you go exploring.
  • Take some cash to Phong Nha. It’s a rural area and credit cards are not accepted everywhere.
  • Son Trach Village has an ATM but I couldn’t change Australian $ cash.

FAQs

How many days in Phong Nha?

I suggest spending 2 or 3 days in Phong Nha to enjoy the Phong Nha Cave and Paradise Cave, visit the Botanical Gardens and enjoy outdoor activities like cycling, hiking, swimming and kayaking. But if you want to trek in the National Park or join a caving expedition with Oxalis, you’ll need to allow more time.

Is one day enough for Phong Nha?

One day in Phong Nha is enough time to see Phong Nha Cave and Paradise Cave but I suggest booking a tour to make getting around quicker and easier. With only one day you’ll get a taste of the Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park but it’s certainly worth spending more time in Phong Nha if you can.

Can you explore Phong Nha by Yourself?

Yes you can see the more accessible caves in Phong Nha by yourself without a tour or a guide. I saw the Phong Nha Cave, Paradise Cave and the Phong Nha Botanical Gardens alone and independently. I travelled by bus into Son Trach Village and hired a motorbike taxi to get to Paradise cave and the Botanical Gardens.

 man with a bicycle tying firewood in Phong Nha Vietnam
Collecting firewood in Phong Nha Vietnam

Final Thoughts: Is Phong Nha Worth Visiting?

Don’t hesitate to add Phong Nha to your Vietnam itinerary, it’s definitely worth visiting if you enjoy beautiful scenery, and want to get a taste of rural life in Vietnam. The stunning karst mountains and phenomenal caves make this small town in Quang Binh, Central Vietnam a delight to visit and a highlight of a holiday in Vietnam.

While it’s best known for the extraordinary caves, Phong Nha is not just for adventure seekers. There are lots of other activites in the Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park for people of all ages to enjoy.

I loved Phong Nha and I think you will too…

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